From the mass of the neutrino to the dating of wine
Ph. Hubert, F. Hubert, V. Raffestin
Centre d’Etudes Nucléaires de Bordeaux-Gradignan (CENBG)
Domaine du Haut-Vigneau, BP 120, F-33175 Gradignan cedex
Tel : +33-5-57-12-08-62, Fax : +33-5-57-12-08-01, E-mail : hubertp@cenbg.in2p3.fr
How did a of group of research scientists, whose goal was to measure the mass of an
elementary particle, invent a precise mean of measuring the age of a fine wine, without
opening the bottle ?
It is no longer necessary to provide a lengthy introduction for neutrinos. Over the past
few years, they have formed the subject of numerous articles in non-specialist journals and
major newspapers. What accounts for such success? Because these particles, probably the
most numerous in the universe, interact only very weakly with the medium they are traveling
through. This makes it hard to study them. At present, their mass has not yet been measured.
This is not because the scientists looking for them have not displayed great ingenuity and
persistence in their research. To prove that the mass of the neutrino is different from zero has
been a long-term quest towards which many physicists have devoted themselves over the past
twenty or thirty years. For if the mass were indeed non-zero, this would have enormous
consequences in astrophysics, as well as in elementary particle physics. The most recent
results indicate that the mass of the neutrino is not zero, but they do not provide a precise
value.
With the aim of forcing the neutrino to reveal its closely guarded secrets, very large
and difficult experiments have been carried out or are currently being proposed. Some study
naturally occurring sources of neutrinos, such as the sun, while others use neutrinos from an
artificial source, such as a nuclear reactor. Still others attempt to demonstrate that the mass is
not zero by an indirect route.
All these experiments have one common feature: they are trying to find a needle in a
haystack ! The needle is the signal created by the passage of the neutrino in the medium,
while the hay is constituted by all the parasitic signals, which are grouped together under the
name of background noise. Those events being sought are so rare that the struggle to
eliminate all the various sources of background noise is sine qua non for any experiment. The
physicist ends up obsessed with the background noise. First of all, to reduce the effects of the
ever-present cosmic rays, he/she sets up the experiment far under ground, for example in a
mine or a mountain tunnel, when not at the bottom of the sea or deep in polar ice. Next, the
detector should be protected against the ubiquitous natural radioactivity, and this is
accomplished by surrounding it by shielding made of lead or iron. Finally, the detector itself
should be built out of materials countaining only infinitesimal quantities of naturally
occurring radioactive elements.
It was in response to these experimental requirements that the Centre of Nuclear
Studies of Bordeaux-Gradignan (CENBG) has been for several years working on the
development of ultra-low-background-noise gamma ray spectrometers. These spectrometers
should be able to detect activities about 100,000 times less than those which occur naturally in
most materials.
2
Cesium 137 activity in the Bordeaux
wine as a function of the vintage year
0,00
0,20
0,40
0,60
0,80
1,00
1,20
1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000
Cs-137 (Bq/l)
Such sensitivity in the detection of radioactive isotopes was of obvious interest for
other disciplines. Oceanography, geology and environmental science were the first to see the
interest of such developments, which for the most part, were carried out in close collaboration
with scientists from these disciplines. Well known among radioactive techniques is that of
dating. Why not try it on wine ?
Every wine connoisseur begins, before tasting, by reading the label to determine the
Château and the vintage year. The vintage year, or millésime, is of great consequence.
Certainly for the taster, but also for whoever bought the bottle. How can one be sure of the
year ? Did you mention dating through radioactive methods ? And that is how, in seeking to
determine the mass of the neutrino, one measures the radioactivity of fine old Bordeaux wine!
To improve the sensitivity of the gamma detection, the first measurements were
carried out with wine samples reduced to ashes. They have shown that wine contains
essentially the isotope potassium 40 at the level of about 30 becquerels per liter (Bq/l), which
corresponds to about 0.9 g of naturally occurring potassium in each liter of wine. Nothing
surprising about that, since wine contains a fair amount of the chemical potassium bitartrate,
so that the presence of the radioactive potassium 40 is quite natural (remember that you have
in your body about 60 Bq/kg of potassium 40). But far more interesting is the fact that certain
bottles of wine contain also the isotope cesium 137, a man-made radioactive element (mainly
from nuclear weapons testing in the atmosphere). This fact was sufficient to excite the
curiosity of the Interregional Laboratory at Bordeaux of the DGCCRF (a French government
agency charged with protecting consumers, assuring fair competition and preventing fraud),
which was in fact looking for a quick and simple way to verify the millésime, and which -very
important- knows how to get hold of some old Bordeaux wine whose years are precisely
known, a crucial element of the story.
All that remained was to carry out the measurements of the radioactivity of the wine as
a function of the years, and the opposite curve was
readily obtained. First, amateurs of wine can
reassure themselves, the activities observed are
quite small, less than 1 Bq/l. The most interesting
aspect is the presence of peaks of activity, which
show that the wine keeps in memory the
atmospheric nuclear testing (years 1950-1963) and
the accident of Chernobyl (1986), which in both
cases led to the presence on French soil of
measurable amounts of cesium 137.
There is a strong correlation between the
rate of cesium 137 decay and the year the wine
was produced. It is obvious that such a curve can
be exploited as of now to estimate the age of a
given wine, and to detect any possible anomalies.
For example, a 1930 vintage wine should not
contain cesium 137. Conversely, an unknown wine
in which activities of about 1 Bq/l or more of
cesium 137 are measured can only correspond to
the year 1963.
3
Being able to date the wine was thus very satisfactory, but reducing it to powder,
especially for “grands crus” or old vintages, was almost a
crime ! The ideal was thus to determine the amount of
cesium 137 without opening the bottle. This appeared to
be possible, as the gamma radiations emitted during the
disintegration of the cesium 137 can easily escape from the
wine, pass through the glass of the bottle and interact with
the gamma spectrometer (see photograph). After a new
series of measurements, and especially after having
checked that the cork and the glass of the bottle did not
contain notable quantities of cesium 137, the feasibility of the nondestructive dating was
established. Dating a wine without opening the bottle is thus possible and the method is now
validated. The improvement of this technique is currently under study, in particular to develop
complementary methods to date young wines.
In conclusion, one can notice that with the current level of sensitivity of radioactivity
measurements, around 1 mBq/l, a whole series of radioactive isotopes could be detected in the
wine. Suppose that the distribution of these activities is specific of a given wine ? Then
different distributions could be expected for a Bordeaux, a Burgundy or an Australian wine,
leading to a possible identification of the origin. However, this is a long term objective and
many measurements remain still essential before this concept can be validated.
Bibliography :
· Pour la Science, n°295, Mai 2002, In neutrino veritas, p.10.
· Science et Vie, n°1017, Juin 2002, Vin : la radioactivité contre la fraude au millésime,
p.46.
· Ph. Hubert, F. Hubert, H.Ohsumi, J. Gaye, B. Médina et J-M. Jouanneau, Application de
l’analyse par spectrométrie gamma bas bruit de fond à la datation des vins d’origine
française, Annales des falsifications, de l’expertise chimique et toxicologique, n°957,
2001, pp. 357-368.
· De la masse des neutrinos à la datation du vin, CNRS Info, n°400, Mars 2002.
· Ph. Hubert, Datation des vins et radioactivité ou Comment valider l’authenticité d’un
millésime ?, 7ème Journée Technique du Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux
(CIVB), 6 Février 2003, Arcachon, France.
· Ph. Hubert, F. Hubert, From the Mass of the Neutrino to the Dating of Wine, Nuclear
Physics News International, Vol. 13, No. 1, 2003.
· Ph. Hubert, Datation des vins, neutrino et radioactivité, Bulletin de la Société Française
de Physique, mai 2003.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Friday, April 16, 2010
Portugal with emphasis on Alentejo
Our last article on Portugal focused on the Douro Valley region, although tasting notes were presented from many regions. This issue, although tasting notes are again presented from many regions, the accompanying article has an emphasis on the important region of Alentejo (Al-en-TEH-jo), the principal competitor to the Douro at the moment. While much of the excitement in the U.S.A. regarding Portugal’s table wines focuses on the hot wines from the Douro, in Portugal itself Alentejo wines have a high profile, and are just as popular--or even more so.
Simply put, Alentejo is the fire to Douro’s ice. Two more different regions can hardly be imagined. The Douro, atmospheric, rugged and remote, is nestled in the Northeastern corner of Portugal, several hours North of Lisbon. Alentejo (literally, “beyond the Tejo River”) is a vast region in Portugal's South, but much of Alentejo is easily accessible from Lisbon. Its Southern capital city, Beja, is about two hours South of Lisbon by car.
Alentejo is sparsely populated, containing only about 7.5% of Portugal’s population despite comprising approximately 34% percent of Portugal’s land mass. It is divided into four administrative districts. The cities of Beja (pop. 35,000), Évora (the largest city with a population of 50,000) and Portalegre (pop. 25,000) anchor three of the districts. The fourth district, called Alentejo Litoral, has no anchor or so-called "capital" city. Although Évora is between Portalegre in the North and Beja in the South, Évora and Beja are customarily referred to respectively as the capitals of Alto (Upper) Alentejo and Baixo (Low) Alentejo.
Particularly in the Southern part of the region, the flat landscape, in sharp contrast to the Douro‘s steep and beautiful hills, can turn monotonous. People seem few and far between. It is dotted with sprawling farms, olive and cork trees, cattle, sheep, pigs and, increasingly, vineyards, many of which are springing up out of nowhere. Sectors around Évora and Estremoz are more interesting, but still no match for the breathtaking views of the Douro.
Stereotypically, Alentejo wines are appreciated for good quality to price ratios at the lower end and fruit forward approachability. "Their wines are easy," said one competitor. That increasingly unreliable stereotype is a back handed compliment, to be sure, and it was never totally true, as structured wines like Quinta do Carmo have proven for decades. It also ignores the increasing number of producers making serious, powerful and ageworthy wines.
Alentejo is a contender for the title, but the Douro is Portugal's best wine region. While, as noted previously, there is little in Alentejo to compare to the Douro’s picturesque scenery, there is also, more pertinently, little to compare to the Douro‘s old vineyards and centuries old winemaking traditions. The Douro’s connection to an existing, world famous wine industry--the Port trade--is a huge advantage for its table wine makers. The Port industry provides human and financial resources, a stable foundation and a tradition for the region. It is not surprising that the Douro stirs the blood of rabid enthusiasts with its history, romance and rugged terroir.
That, however, is hardly the end of the story. Alentejo is an increasingly prominent and prestigious region that cannot be ignored. It has certain advantages over the Douro, including the ease and cost of harvesting and planting. If that flat landscape lacks the sheer majesty of the Douro‘s steep hills, it makes vineyard management much easier and cheaper. If its traditions are not as old, its freedom to experiment often produces excellent results. If Alentejo does not, in my opinion, have quite as many distinctive and exciting wines as the Douro at this time, it has very serious people making substantial investments who are rapidly changing that dynamic.
Change is in the air, in many respects. Circa 1990, Alentejo had a handful of co-ops, and approximately two dozen producers. Today, about fifteen years later, official figures as of this writing show 237 producers, an astonishing growth. Local producers are speculating that this rapid growth may in fact soon halt, as it was partly encouraged by a subsidy program that may end shortly, perhaps causing dozens of wineries and growers to disappear. One producer estimated that one-third of the wineries might vanish. Coupled with European Union attempts to reduce a glut of wine (consumption in the EU is down, and imports are up), the region’s explosive growth may at least pause in the near future.
Classification
Portugal’s wine classification makes “Alentejo” on the label a D.O.C., similar to France’s A.O.C. and Italy’s D.O.C. There are eight sub-regions classified within the Alentejo DOC: Borba, Reguengos, Moura, Redondo, Granja-Amareleja, Évora, Portalegre, and Vidigueira. While nearly all of the well known wines that you see in the Douro are DOCs, in less traditional Alentejo there is rebellion evident analogous to the Super Tuscan phenomenon. Many wineries simply opt out of the Alentejo DOC’s requirements and designate most of their wines with the broader Vinho Regional Alentejano classification. Although in theory the “DOC” is the top of the quality line, in practice there is often no stigma to being a VR, particularly in Alentejo. Carrie Jorgensen, co-owner of Cortes de Cima, asserted: “The best wines are VRs in Alentejo.” She added, “Alentejo is good for outlaws.”
Given this independent streak, it is not surprising that Alentejo has developed a reputation for making “international” wines. Producers often use internationally familiar varietals like Syrah to blend into popular local grapes like Aragonez (uh-RAG-o-nesh, also known as Tempranillo in Spain and Tinta Roriz in the Douro) and Trincadeira (also known as Tinta Amarela in the Douro). Producers are also increasingly adopting Touriga Nacional (the Douro’s signature varietal). It seems to be a grape that will do very well in Alentejo.
Climate and Vintages
Alentejo’s climate is dry and often brutally hot, although the Northern sub-region is a bit cooler than the South. Locals talk of interior temperatures from the hottest areas hitting 47C (117F) in the Summer. Work in the vineyards generally ends early in the afternoon. In fact, winemakers told me of various days in certain vintages where it just seemed impossible to work at all due to the extreme heat. It also seems to be getting hotter. It was not so long ago that 2003 was talked about as one of the hottest years ever in Alentejo. Yet, locals called 2005 equally scorching. They added that extreme, prolonged heat in 2006 seriously harmed the vintage.
As in the Douro, the trio of vintages from 2003-2005 produced many excellent wines overall. Most producers pick 2004 as the best recent vintage, a view with which I concur as a generalization. It produced structured, dense and generally well balanced wines. Although I rank 2004 at the top, it is dangerous to generalize over a region this large with so many wineries that have different philosophies and, more importantly, different experience levels with their vineyards. It was a good Aragonez year for most, which is significant, said several producers, because it means that it did not get unbearably hot. In unusually hot years, those producers said that they rely on Syrah more. 2003 and 2005 were both extremely hot years that produced many excellent wines. They are not as consistent as the '04s, but there are many fine wines, ripe and succulent. If you see older vintages on the market, the 2001s are powerful but focused, coming closer to 2004, and the 2000s are succulent and rich.
The weakest recent vintages are clearly 2002 and 2006. 2002 was problematic in most of Portugal, as well as much of Europe. Picking at the right time did allow some wineries to produce good wines. Extreme heat and rain at the wrong times badly marred 2006. David Baverstock, winemaker at Esporão, said that "2003 and 2005 were very hot, but manageable. 2006 was very hot, but not manageable." Based on my tastings (which have yet to include many top 2006 reds), one saving grace to 2006 is the performance of the white wines. From what I saw in Alentejo, good producers often turned out nice Brancos, as whites are called in Portugal, far exceeding the reputation of the vintage--and of Alentejo, which is not exactly famed for its white wines. Most producers aim to correct that, and, citing consumer demand, spoke of a renewed emphasis on their Brancos. I predict that white wines are going to become a point of pride in Portugal in general, and Alentejo in particular.
Some Final Thoughts
The stereotype of Alentejo being merely a fruit forward, good value region is plainly outdated. There are certainly many producers content to fill a niche of providing bang for the buck, with little pretension to greatness. There is, to be sure, something to be said for that. At the same time, while Alentejo has always had some flagships, the region is developing an exciting group of wineries that can act as additional standard bearers and adding them to existing stalwarts like Quinta do Mouro, João Portugal Ramos, Cortes de Cima, Esporão, Quinta do Carmo, Mouchão and Fundação Eugénio Almeida (a.k.a., Adega Cartuxa). Promising young wineries with little profile in the U.S.A. include Malhadinha Nova, Zambujeiro and beautiful Dona Maria, among others.
Alentejo also has personalities that can be effective ambassadors to the world, from country gentleman Júlio Bastos at Dona Maria (formerly at Quinta do Carmo), to gregarious João Portugal Ramos, and passionate João and Rita Soares at Malhadinha Nova. Influential winemaker David Baverstock runs Herdade do Esporão. He helped shape the early years at prominent Douro wineries like Quinta do Crasto, Quinta de la Rosa and Fojo. These are folks who collectively may need to pay a little more attention to marketing the region, and not just their wineries, if the region is to become as famous in the USA as it is in Portugal. In the USA, the recognizable brand name for Portuguese dry reds is more likely to be “Douro” than anything else. The Port connection, again, gives the Douro a head start in consumer awareness.
Its growth and increasing quality make Alentejo one more wine region to put on your list. Here is your chance to get ahead of the curve, because in the next decade there are going to be an increasing number of wines that people will want to talk about coming from Alentejo. There is already a substantial core group that is impressive and intriguing, and of course the region is chock full of fine bargains. I found many wines that were very pleasing for under 10 Euros--even some under 5. Hopefully, exchange rates will not destroy all of these values and some of them will make it to our shores. Most winemakers I spoke to, however, were increasingly concerned--and sometimes on the verge of panic--about the exchange rate problem.
Still, whether you are a bargain hunter or a trophy hunter, you will ignore Alentejo at your peril.
A Few Words About the Douro’s New Vintages
Portugal’s most famous wine region is now presenting or about to present many 2005s in the marketplace. I did not see many of these for my last report, but I now have a better idea of what they are likely to become.
The trio of vintages, 2003-2005, as in Alentejo, produced many excellent wines, although they are very differently styled. As in Alentejo, I believe 2004 is the best of this trio of vintages, producing concentrated, ageworthy and intense wines with excellent fruit that generally still retain their balance and focus. They are powerful, but they also have some precision, balance and focus. I believe that they will age well. Many producers indicated it was one of Portugal’s best ever vintages for dry wines--if not the best, considering recent improvements in dry wine making as well as vintage conditions.
Vintage 2003 was the year that shocked most of Europe with scorching heat. In 2003, most producers indicated that it was harder for them to keep the wines in balance than it was in 2004. My tastings would seem to confirm that as some of the wines (not all, by any means) showed a little heat after long aeration. The vintage is a bit more inconsistent than 2004. The wines that work well, and many do, are ripe, succulent and sexy. They are more approachable and less dense than the 2004s, but often simply delicious. As the wines continue developing, it seems apparent that they are not quite as well structured overall as the 2004s, but at their best, consumers will find a lot to like from these wines.
2005 was a difficult year because it had so little rain, unusual even for the relatively dry Douro. Some producers said that they feared the grapes would not ripen properly. Many also reported slightly lower alcohol levels. The word “freshness” came up repeatedly in conversations to describe these wines. Where the wines have problems, it is the opposite problem of the 2003s—some can be too understated for their own good.
It is almost an old joke to report that many producers to whom I spoke thought their 2005s were their best releases ever, exceeding the performance of their 2004s-- that they touted as their best ever vintage just twelve months ago. The punch line here is that, at least for a lucky few, they may not too far from wrong. Charles Symington (Symington Family) probably summed it up most succinctly in calling 2005 "a winemaker’s year," because the best wines from some top producers lack little and hold up well, more or less, to their 2004s and 2003s. There are many reasons for this, from some relatively new producers continuing to refine their craft (such as Pintas, Poeira), to some dedicated producers simply making the most of what nature gave them (such as Quinta do Crasto, Lemos & Van Zeller, and Vale Meão). Overall, however, I would say that the 2005s are less consistently excellent, lighter and less concentrated than the 2004s. At the lower end, or if they are not fully successful, they can seem routine and foursquare. Many such will be early maturing. They certainly have more finesse than the big vintages preceding them, and considerable charm. While they match neither the succulence of the ‘03s, nor the density and intensity of the ‘04s, the best of them are often lovely, impeccably balanced and seductive. The best of them will find many fans, particularly those looking for a little more restraint in this warm climate region. This is likely an atypical vintage for the Douro, as a couple of producers asserted.
Wine of the vintage candidates include Vale Meão's flagship Tinto, Lemos & Van Zeller's CV, Crasto's Maria Teresa, Wine & Soul’s Pintas and Vallado's new old vines cuvée, Adelaide.
2006, as in Alentejo, is a problematic vintage that will end the Douro’s run of luck for the moment. It is impossible to say just how badly at the moment since most top 2006 reds have not been bottled or released. It was a year featuring a dry Winter, then both heavy rain at times and hailstorms, which missed many vineyards but affected others seriously. Some reported a loss of 70% to 80% of the new crop. Quinta de Roriz, for one notable instance, lost half of its crop. Some producers indicated that the crop was smaller, but fine. Just to complete the hat trick, however, extended heat also harmed the grapes at times. The Summer of 2006 was the 5th hottest on record since 1931.
Note: In this article, you will see references to how wines drank on the next day. For your information, since it probably affects how quickly wines age and deteriorate, when I put wines away to try the next day, I stopper them and refrigerate them overnight.
Unknown Author
Simply put, Alentejo is the fire to Douro’s ice. Two more different regions can hardly be imagined. The Douro, atmospheric, rugged and remote, is nestled in the Northeastern corner of Portugal, several hours North of Lisbon. Alentejo (literally, “beyond the Tejo River”) is a vast region in Portugal's South, but much of Alentejo is easily accessible from Lisbon. Its Southern capital city, Beja, is about two hours South of Lisbon by car.
Alentejo is sparsely populated, containing only about 7.5% of Portugal’s population despite comprising approximately 34% percent of Portugal’s land mass. It is divided into four administrative districts. The cities of Beja (pop. 35,000), Évora (the largest city with a population of 50,000) and Portalegre (pop. 25,000) anchor three of the districts. The fourth district, called Alentejo Litoral, has no anchor or so-called "capital" city. Although Évora is between Portalegre in the North and Beja in the South, Évora and Beja are customarily referred to respectively as the capitals of Alto (Upper) Alentejo and Baixo (Low) Alentejo.
Particularly in the Southern part of the region, the flat landscape, in sharp contrast to the Douro‘s steep and beautiful hills, can turn monotonous. People seem few and far between. It is dotted with sprawling farms, olive and cork trees, cattle, sheep, pigs and, increasingly, vineyards, many of which are springing up out of nowhere. Sectors around Évora and Estremoz are more interesting, but still no match for the breathtaking views of the Douro.
Stereotypically, Alentejo wines are appreciated for good quality to price ratios at the lower end and fruit forward approachability. "Their wines are easy," said one competitor. That increasingly unreliable stereotype is a back handed compliment, to be sure, and it was never totally true, as structured wines like Quinta do Carmo have proven for decades. It also ignores the increasing number of producers making serious, powerful and ageworthy wines.
Alentejo is a contender for the title, but the Douro is Portugal's best wine region. While, as noted previously, there is little in Alentejo to compare to the Douro’s picturesque scenery, there is also, more pertinently, little to compare to the Douro‘s old vineyards and centuries old winemaking traditions. The Douro’s connection to an existing, world famous wine industry--the Port trade--is a huge advantage for its table wine makers. The Port industry provides human and financial resources, a stable foundation and a tradition for the region. It is not surprising that the Douro stirs the blood of rabid enthusiasts with its history, romance and rugged terroir.
That, however, is hardly the end of the story. Alentejo is an increasingly prominent and prestigious region that cannot be ignored. It has certain advantages over the Douro, including the ease and cost of harvesting and planting. If that flat landscape lacks the sheer majesty of the Douro‘s steep hills, it makes vineyard management much easier and cheaper. If its traditions are not as old, its freedom to experiment often produces excellent results. If Alentejo does not, in my opinion, have quite as many distinctive and exciting wines as the Douro at this time, it has very serious people making substantial investments who are rapidly changing that dynamic.
Change is in the air, in many respects. Circa 1990, Alentejo had a handful of co-ops, and approximately two dozen producers. Today, about fifteen years later, official figures as of this writing show 237 producers, an astonishing growth. Local producers are speculating that this rapid growth may in fact soon halt, as it was partly encouraged by a subsidy program that may end shortly, perhaps causing dozens of wineries and growers to disappear. One producer estimated that one-third of the wineries might vanish. Coupled with European Union attempts to reduce a glut of wine (consumption in the EU is down, and imports are up), the region’s explosive growth may at least pause in the near future.
Classification
Portugal’s wine classification makes “Alentejo” on the label a D.O.C., similar to France’s A.O.C. and Italy’s D.O.C. There are eight sub-regions classified within the Alentejo DOC: Borba, Reguengos, Moura, Redondo, Granja-Amareleja, Évora, Portalegre, and Vidigueira. While nearly all of the well known wines that you see in the Douro are DOCs, in less traditional Alentejo there is rebellion evident analogous to the Super Tuscan phenomenon. Many wineries simply opt out of the Alentejo DOC’s requirements and designate most of their wines with the broader Vinho Regional Alentejano classification. Although in theory the “DOC” is the top of the quality line, in practice there is often no stigma to being a VR, particularly in Alentejo. Carrie Jorgensen, co-owner of Cortes de Cima, asserted: “The best wines are VRs in Alentejo.” She added, “Alentejo is good for outlaws.”
Given this independent streak, it is not surprising that Alentejo has developed a reputation for making “international” wines. Producers often use internationally familiar varietals like Syrah to blend into popular local grapes like Aragonez (uh-RAG-o-nesh, also known as Tempranillo in Spain and Tinta Roriz in the Douro) and Trincadeira (also known as Tinta Amarela in the Douro). Producers are also increasingly adopting Touriga Nacional (the Douro’s signature varietal). It seems to be a grape that will do very well in Alentejo.
Climate and Vintages
Alentejo’s climate is dry and often brutally hot, although the Northern sub-region is a bit cooler than the South. Locals talk of interior temperatures from the hottest areas hitting 47C (117F) in the Summer. Work in the vineyards generally ends early in the afternoon. In fact, winemakers told me of various days in certain vintages where it just seemed impossible to work at all due to the extreme heat. It also seems to be getting hotter. It was not so long ago that 2003 was talked about as one of the hottest years ever in Alentejo. Yet, locals called 2005 equally scorching. They added that extreme, prolonged heat in 2006 seriously harmed the vintage.
As in the Douro, the trio of vintages from 2003-2005 produced many excellent wines overall. Most producers pick 2004 as the best recent vintage, a view with which I concur as a generalization. It produced structured, dense and generally well balanced wines. Although I rank 2004 at the top, it is dangerous to generalize over a region this large with so many wineries that have different philosophies and, more importantly, different experience levels with their vineyards. It was a good Aragonez year for most, which is significant, said several producers, because it means that it did not get unbearably hot. In unusually hot years, those producers said that they rely on Syrah more. 2003 and 2005 were both extremely hot years that produced many excellent wines. They are not as consistent as the '04s, but there are many fine wines, ripe and succulent. If you see older vintages on the market, the 2001s are powerful but focused, coming closer to 2004, and the 2000s are succulent and rich.
The weakest recent vintages are clearly 2002 and 2006. 2002 was problematic in most of Portugal, as well as much of Europe. Picking at the right time did allow some wineries to produce good wines. Extreme heat and rain at the wrong times badly marred 2006. David Baverstock, winemaker at Esporão, said that "2003 and 2005 were very hot, but manageable. 2006 was very hot, but not manageable." Based on my tastings (which have yet to include many top 2006 reds), one saving grace to 2006 is the performance of the white wines. From what I saw in Alentejo, good producers often turned out nice Brancos, as whites are called in Portugal, far exceeding the reputation of the vintage--and of Alentejo, which is not exactly famed for its white wines. Most producers aim to correct that, and, citing consumer demand, spoke of a renewed emphasis on their Brancos. I predict that white wines are going to become a point of pride in Portugal in general, and Alentejo in particular.
Some Final Thoughts
The stereotype of Alentejo being merely a fruit forward, good value region is plainly outdated. There are certainly many producers content to fill a niche of providing bang for the buck, with little pretension to greatness. There is, to be sure, something to be said for that. At the same time, while Alentejo has always had some flagships, the region is developing an exciting group of wineries that can act as additional standard bearers and adding them to existing stalwarts like Quinta do Mouro, João Portugal Ramos, Cortes de Cima, Esporão, Quinta do Carmo, Mouchão and Fundação Eugénio Almeida (a.k.a., Adega Cartuxa). Promising young wineries with little profile in the U.S.A. include Malhadinha Nova, Zambujeiro and beautiful Dona Maria, among others.
Alentejo also has personalities that can be effective ambassadors to the world, from country gentleman Júlio Bastos at Dona Maria (formerly at Quinta do Carmo), to gregarious João Portugal Ramos, and passionate João and Rita Soares at Malhadinha Nova. Influential winemaker David Baverstock runs Herdade do Esporão. He helped shape the early years at prominent Douro wineries like Quinta do Crasto, Quinta de la Rosa and Fojo. These are folks who collectively may need to pay a little more attention to marketing the region, and not just their wineries, if the region is to become as famous in the USA as it is in Portugal. In the USA, the recognizable brand name for Portuguese dry reds is more likely to be “Douro” than anything else. The Port connection, again, gives the Douro a head start in consumer awareness.
Its growth and increasing quality make Alentejo one more wine region to put on your list. Here is your chance to get ahead of the curve, because in the next decade there are going to be an increasing number of wines that people will want to talk about coming from Alentejo. There is already a substantial core group that is impressive and intriguing, and of course the region is chock full of fine bargains. I found many wines that were very pleasing for under 10 Euros--even some under 5. Hopefully, exchange rates will not destroy all of these values and some of them will make it to our shores. Most winemakers I spoke to, however, were increasingly concerned--and sometimes on the verge of panic--about the exchange rate problem.
Still, whether you are a bargain hunter or a trophy hunter, you will ignore Alentejo at your peril.
A Few Words About the Douro’s New Vintages
Portugal’s most famous wine region is now presenting or about to present many 2005s in the marketplace. I did not see many of these for my last report, but I now have a better idea of what they are likely to become.
The trio of vintages, 2003-2005, as in Alentejo, produced many excellent wines, although they are very differently styled. As in Alentejo, I believe 2004 is the best of this trio of vintages, producing concentrated, ageworthy and intense wines with excellent fruit that generally still retain their balance and focus. They are powerful, but they also have some precision, balance and focus. I believe that they will age well. Many producers indicated it was one of Portugal’s best ever vintages for dry wines--if not the best, considering recent improvements in dry wine making as well as vintage conditions.
Vintage 2003 was the year that shocked most of Europe with scorching heat. In 2003, most producers indicated that it was harder for them to keep the wines in balance than it was in 2004. My tastings would seem to confirm that as some of the wines (not all, by any means) showed a little heat after long aeration. The vintage is a bit more inconsistent than 2004. The wines that work well, and many do, are ripe, succulent and sexy. They are more approachable and less dense than the 2004s, but often simply delicious. As the wines continue developing, it seems apparent that they are not quite as well structured overall as the 2004s, but at their best, consumers will find a lot to like from these wines.
2005 was a difficult year because it had so little rain, unusual even for the relatively dry Douro. Some producers said that they feared the grapes would not ripen properly. Many also reported slightly lower alcohol levels. The word “freshness” came up repeatedly in conversations to describe these wines. Where the wines have problems, it is the opposite problem of the 2003s—some can be too understated for their own good.
It is almost an old joke to report that many producers to whom I spoke thought their 2005s were their best releases ever, exceeding the performance of their 2004s-- that they touted as their best ever vintage just twelve months ago. The punch line here is that, at least for a lucky few, they may not too far from wrong. Charles Symington (Symington Family) probably summed it up most succinctly in calling 2005 "a winemaker’s year," because the best wines from some top producers lack little and hold up well, more or less, to their 2004s and 2003s. There are many reasons for this, from some relatively new producers continuing to refine their craft (such as Pintas, Poeira), to some dedicated producers simply making the most of what nature gave them (such as Quinta do Crasto, Lemos & Van Zeller, and Vale Meão). Overall, however, I would say that the 2005s are less consistently excellent, lighter and less concentrated than the 2004s. At the lower end, or if they are not fully successful, they can seem routine and foursquare. Many such will be early maturing. They certainly have more finesse than the big vintages preceding them, and considerable charm. While they match neither the succulence of the ‘03s, nor the density and intensity of the ‘04s, the best of them are often lovely, impeccably balanced and seductive. The best of them will find many fans, particularly those looking for a little more restraint in this warm climate region. This is likely an atypical vintage for the Douro, as a couple of producers asserted.
Wine of the vintage candidates include Vale Meão's flagship Tinto, Lemos & Van Zeller's CV, Crasto's Maria Teresa, Wine & Soul’s Pintas and Vallado's new old vines cuvée, Adelaide.
2006, as in Alentejo, is a problematic vintage that will end the Douro’s run of luck for the moment. It is impossible to say just how badly at the moment since most top 2006 reds have not been bottled or released. It was a year featuring a dry Winter, then both heavy rain at times and hailstorms, which missed many vineyards but affected others seriously. Some reported a loss of 70% to 80% of the new crop. Quinta de Roriz, for one notable instance, lost half of its crop. Some producers indicated that the crop was smaller, but fine. Just to complete the hat trick, however, extended heat also harmed the grapes at times. The Summer of 2006 was the 5th hottest on record since 1931.
Note: In this article, you will see references to how wines drank on the next day. For your information, since it probably affects how quickly wines age and deteriorate, when I put wines away to try the next day, I stopper them and refrigerate them overnight.
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