From the mass of the neutrino to the dating of wine
Ph. Hubert, F. Hubert, V. Raffestin
Centre d’Etudes Nucléaires de Bordeaux-Gradignan (CENBG)
Domaine du Haut-Vigneau, BP 120, F-33175 Gradignan cedex
Tel : +33-5-57-12-08-62, Fax : +33-5-57-12-08-01, E-mail : hubertp@cenbg.in2p3.fr
How did a of group of research scientists, whose goal was to measure the mass of an
elementary particle, invent a precise mean of measuring the age of a fine wine, without
opening the bottle ?
It is no longer necessary to provide a lengthy introduction for neutrinos. Over the past
few years, they have formed the subject of numerous articles in non-specialist journals and
major newspapers. What accounts for such success? Because these particles, probably the
most numerous in the universe, interact only very weakly with the medium they are traveling
through. This makes it hard to study them. At present, their mass has not yet been measured.
This is not because the scientists looking for them have not displayed great ingenuity and
persistence in their research. To prove that the mass of the neutrino is different from zero has
been a long-term quest towards which many physicists have devoted themselves over the past
twenty or thirty years. For if the mass were indeed non-zero, this would have enormous
consequences in astrophysics, as well as in elementary particle physics. The most recent
results indicate that the mass of the neutrino is not zero, but they do not provide a precise
value.
With the aim of forcing the neutrino to reveal its closely guarded secrets, very large
and difficult experiments have been carried out or are currently being proposed. Some study
naturally occurring sources of neutrinos, such as the sun, while others use neutrinos from an
artificial source, such as a nuclear reactor. Still others attempt to demonstrate that the mass is
not zero by an indirect route.
All these experiments have one common feature: they are trying to find a needle in a
haystack ! The needle is the signal created by the passage of the neutrino in the medium,
while the hay is constituted by all the parasitic signals, which are grouped together under the
name of background noise. Those events being sought are so rare that the struggle to
eliminate all the various sources of background noise is sine qua non for any experiment. The
physicist ends up obsessed with the background noise. First of all, to reduce the effects of the
ever-present cosmic rays, he/she sets up the experiment far under ground, for example in a
mine or a mountain tunnel, when not at the bottom of the sea or deep in polar ice. Next, the
detector should be protected against the ubiquitous natural radioactivity, and this is
accomplished by surrounding it by shielding made of lead or iron. Finally, the detector itself
should be built out of materials countaining only infinitesimal quantities of naturally
occurring radioactive elements.
It was in response to these experimental requirements that the Centre of Nuclear
Studies of Bordeaux-Gradignan (CENBG) has been for several years working on the
development of ultra-low-background-noise gamma ray spectrometers. These spectrometers
should be able to detect activities about 100,000 times less than those which occur naturally in
most materials.
2
Cesium 137 activity in the Bordeaux
wine as a function of the vintage year
0,00
0,20
0,40
0,60
0,80
1,00
1,20
1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000
Cs-137 (Bq/l)
Such sensitivity in the detection of radioactive isotopes was of obvious interest for
other disciplines. Oceanography, geology and environmental science were the first to see the
interest of such developments, which for the most part, were carried out in close collaboration
with scientists from these disciplines. Well known among radioactive techniques is that of
dating. Why not try it on wine ?
Every wine connoisseur begins, before tasting, by reading the label to determine the
Château and the vintage year. The vintage year, or millésime, is of great consequence.
Certainly for the taster, but also for whoever bought the bottle. How can one be sure of the
year ? Did you mention dating through radioactive methods ? And that is how, in seeking to
determine the mass of the neutrino, one measures the radioactivity of fine old Bordeaux wine!
To improve the sensitivity of the gamma detection, the first measurements were
carried out with wine samples reduced to ashes. They have shown that wine contains
essentially the isotope potassium 40 at the level of about 30 becquerels per liter (Bq/l), which
corresponds to about 0.9 g of naturally occurring potassium in each liter of wine. Nothing
surprising about that, since wine contains a fair amount of the chemical potassium bitartrate,
so that the presence of the radioactive potassium 40 is quite natural (remember that you have
in your body about 60 Bq/kg of potassium 40). But far more interesting is the fact that certain
bottles of wine contain also the isotope cesium 137, a man-made radioactive element (mainly
from nuclear weapons testing in the atmosphere). This fact was sufficient to excite the
curiosity of the Interregional Laboratory at Bordeaux of the DGCCRF (a French government
agency charged with protecting consumers, assuring fair competition and preventing fraud),
which was in fact looking for a quick and simple way to verify the millésime, and which -very
important- knows how to get hold of some old Bordeaux wine whose years are precisely
known, a crucial element of the story.
All that remained was to carry out the measurements of the radioactivity of the wine as
a function of the years, and the opposite curve was
readily obtained. First, amateurs of wine can
reassure themselves, the activities observed are
quite small, less than 1 Bq/l. The most interesting
aspect is the presence of peaks of activity, which
show that the wine keeps in memory the
atmospheric nuclear testing (years 1950-1963) and
the accident of Chernobyl (1986), which in both
cases led to the presence on French soil of
measurable amounts of cesium 137.
There is a strong correlation between the
rate of cesium 137 decay and the year the wine
was produced. It is obvious that such a curve can
be exploited as of now to estimate the age of a
given wine, and to detect any possible anomalies.
For example, a 1930 vintage wine should not
contain cesium 137. Conversely, an unknown wine
in which activities of about 1 Bq/l or more of
cesium 137 are measured can only correspond to
the year 1963.
3
Being able to date the wine was thus very satisfactory, but reducing it to powder,
especially for “grands crus” or old vintages, was almost a
crime ! The ideal was thus to determine the amount of
cesium 137 without opening the bottle. This appeared to
be possible, as the gamma radiations emitted during the
disintegration of the cesium 137 can easily escape from the
wine, pass through the glass of the bottle and interact with
the gamma spectrometer (see photograph). After a new
series of measurements, and especially after having
checked that the cork and the glass of the bottle did not
contain notable quantities of cesium 137, the feasibility of the nondestructive dating was
established. Dating a wine without opening the bottle is thus possible and the method is now
validated. The improvement of this technique is currently under study, in particular to develop
complementary methods to date young wines.
In conclusion, one can notice that with the current level of sensitivity of radioactivity
measurements, around 1 mBq/l, a whole series of radioactive isotopes could be detected in the
wine. Suppose that the distribution of these activities is specific of a given wine ? Then
different distributions could be expected for a Bordeaux, a Burgundy or an Australian wine,
leading to a possible identification of the origin. However, this is a long term objective and
many measurements remain still essential before this concept can be validated.
Bibliography :
· Pour la Science, n°295, Mai 2002, In neutrino veritas, p.10.
· Science et Vie, n°1017, Juin 2002, Vin : la radioactivité contre la fraude au millésime,
p.46.
· Ph. Hubert, F. Hubert, H.Ohsumi, J. Gaye, B. Médina et J-M. Jouanneau, Application de
l’analyse par spectrométrie gamma bas bruit de fond à la datation des vins d’origine
française, Annales des falsifications, de l’expertise chimique et toxicologique, n°957,
2001, pp. 357-368.
· De la masse des neutrinos à la datation du vin, CNRS Info, n°400, Mars 2002.
· Ph. Hubert, Datation des vins et radioactivité ou Comment valider l’authenticité d’un
millésime ?, 7ème Journée Technique du Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux
(CIVB), 6 Février 2003, Arcachon, France.
· Ph. Hubert, F. Hubert, From the Mass of the Neutrino to the Dating of Wine, Nuclear
Physics News International, Vol. 13, No. 1, 2003.
· Ph. Hubert, Datation des vins, neutrino et radioactivité, Bulletin de la Société Française
de Physique, mai 2003.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Friday, April 16, 2010
Portugal with emphasis on Alentejo
Our last article on Portugal focused on the Douro Valley region, although tasting notes were presented from many regions. This issue, although tasting notes are again presented from many regions, the accompanying article has an emphasis on the important region of Alentejo (Al-en-TEH-jo), the principal competitor to the Douro at the moment. While much of the excitement in the U.S.A. regarding Portugal’s table wines focuses on the hot wines from the Douro, in Portugal itself Alentejo wines have a high profile, and are just as popular--or even more so.
Simply put, Alentejo is the fire to Douro’s ice. Two more different regions can hardly be imagined. The Douro, atmospheric, rugged and remote, is nestled in the Northeastern corner of Portugal, several hours North of Lisbon. Alentejo (literally, “beyond the Tejo River”) is a vast region in Portugal's South, but much of Alentejo is easily accessible from Lisbon. Its Southern capital city, Beja, is about two hours South of Lisbon by car.
Alentejo is sparsely populated, containing only about 7.5% of Portugal’s population despite comprising approximately 34% percent of Portugal’s land mass. It is divided into four administrative districts. The cities of Beja (pop. 35,000), Évora (the largest city with a population of 50,000) and Portalegre (pop. 25,000) anchor three of the districts. The fourth district, called Alentejo Litoral, has no anchor or so-called "capital" city. Although Évora is between Portalegre in the North and Beja in the South, Évora and Beja are customarily referred to respectively as the capitals of Alto (Upper) Alentejo and Baixo (Low) Alentejo.
Particularly in the Southern part of the region, the flat landscape, in sharp contrast to the Douro‘s steep and beautiful hills, can turn monotonous. People seem few and far between. It is dotted with sprawling farms, olive and cork trees, cattle, sheep, pigs and, increasingly, vineyards, many of which are springing up out of nowhere. Sectors around Évora and Estremoz are more interesting, but still no match for the breathtaking views of the Douro.
Stereotypically, Alentejo wines are appreciated for good quality to price ratios at the lower end and fruit forward approachability. "Their wines are easy," said one competitor. That increasingly unreliable stereotype is a back handed compliment, to be sure, and it was never totally true, as structured wines like Quinta do Carmo have proven for decades. It also ignores the increasing number of producers making serious, powerful and ageworthy wines.
Alentejo is a contender for the title, but the Douro is Portugal's best wine region. While, as noted previously, there is little in Alentejo to compare to the Douro’s picturesque scenery, there is also, more pertinently, little to compare to the Douro‘s old vineyards and centuries old winemaking traditions. The Douro’s connection to an existing, world famous wine industry--the Port trade--is a huge advantage for its table wine makers. The Port industry provides human and financial resources, a stable foundation and a tradition for the region. It is not surprising that the Douro stirs the blood of rabid enthusiasts with its history, romance and rugged terroir.
That, however, is hardly the end of the story. Alentejo is an increasingly prominent and prestigious region that cannot be ignored. It has certain advantages over the Douro, including the ease and cost of harvesting and planting. If that flat landscape lacks the sheer majesty of the Douro‘s steep hills, it makes vineyard management much easier and cheaper. If its traditions are not as old, its freedom to experiment often produces excellent results. If Alentejo does not, in my opinion, have quite as many distinctive and exciting wines as the Douro at this time, it has very serious people making substantial investments who are rapidly changing that dynamic.
Change is in the air, in many respects. Circa 1990, Alentejo had a handful of co-ops, and approximately two dozen producers. Today, about fifteen years later, official figures as of this writing show 237 producers, an astonishing growth. Local producers are speculating that this rapid growth may in fact soon halt, as it was partly encouraged by a subsidy program that may end shortly, perhaps causing dozens of wineries and growers to disappear. One producer estimated that one-third of the wineries might vanish. Coupled with European Union attempts to reduce a glut of wine (consumption in the EU is down, and imports are up), the region’s explosive growth may at least pause in the near future.
Classification
Portugal’s wine classification makes “Alentejo” on the label a D.O.C., similar to France’s A.O.C. and Italy’s D.O.C. There are eight sub-regions classified within the Alentejo DOC: Borba, Reguengos, Moura, Redondo, Granja-Amareleja, Évora, Portalegre, and Vidigueira. While nearly all of the well known wines that you see in the Douro are DOCs, in less traditional Alentejo there is rebellion evident analogous to the Super Tuscan phenomenon. Many wineries simply opt out of the Alentejo DOC’s requirements and designate most of their wines with the broader Vinho Regional Alentejano classification. Although in theory the “DOC” is the top of the quality line, in practice there is often no stigma to being a VR, particularly in Alentejo. Carrie Jorgensen, co-owner of Cortes de Cima, asserted: “The best wines are VRs in Alentejo.” She added, “Alentejo is good for outlaws.”
Given this independent streak, it is not surprising that Alentejo has developed a reputation for making “international” wines. Producers often use internationally familiar varietals like Syrah to blend into popular local grapes like Aragonez (uh-RAG-o-nesh, also known as Tempranillo in Spain and Tinta Roriz in the Douro) and Trincadeira (also known as Tinta Amarela in the Douro). Producers are also increasingly adopting Touriga Nacional (the Douro’s signature varietal). It seems to be a grape that will do very well in Alentejo.
Climate and Vintages
Alentejo’s climate is dry and often brutally hot, although the Northern sub-region is a bit cooler than the South. Locals talk of interior temperatures from the hottest areas hitting 47C (117F) in the Summer. Work in the vineyards generally ends early in the afternoon. In fact, winemakers told me of various days in certain vintages where it just seemed impossible to work at all due to the extreme heat. It also seems to be getting hotter. It was not so long ago that 2003 was talked about as one of the hottest years ever in Alentejo. Yet, locals called 2005 equally scorching. They added that extreme, prolonged heat in 2006 seriously harmed the vintage.
As in the Douro, the trio of vintages from 2003-2005 produced many excellent wines overall. Most producers pick 2004 as the best recent vintage, a view with which I concur as a generalization. It produced structured, dense and generally well balanced wines. Although I rank 2004 at the top, it is dangerous to generalize over a region this large with so many wineries that have different philosophies and, more importantly, different experience levels with their vineyards. It was a good Aragonez year for most, which is significant, said several producers, because it means that it did not get unbearably hot. In unusually hot years, those producers said that they rely on Syrah more. 2003 and 2005 were both extremely hot years that produced many excellent wines. They are not as consistent as the '04s, but there are many fine wines, ripe and succulent. If you see older vintages on the market, the 2001s are powerful but focused, coming closer to 2004, and the 2000s are succulent and rich.
The weakest recent vintages are clearly 2002 and 2006. 2002 was problematic in most of Portugal, as well as much of Europe. Picking at the right time did allow some wineries to produce good wines. Extreme heat and rain at the wrong times badly marred 2006. David Baverstock, winemaker at Esporão, said that "2003 and 2005 were very hot, but manageable. 2006 was very hot, but not manageable." Based on my tastings (which have yet to include many top 2006 reds), one saving grace to 2006 is the performance of the white wines. From what I saw in Alentejo, good producers often turned out nice Brancos, as whites are called in Portugal, far exceeding the reputation of the vintage--and of Alentejo, which is not exactly famed for its white wines. Most producers aim to correct that, and, citing consumer demand, spoke of a renewed emphasis on their Brancos. I predict that white wines are going to become a point of pride in Portugal in general, and Alentejo in particular.
Some Final Thoughts
The stereotype of Alentejo being merely a fruit forward, good value region is plainly outdated. There are certainly many producers content to fill a niche of providing bang for the buck, with little pretension to greatness. There is, to be sure, something to be said for that. At the same time, while Alentejo has always had some flagships, the region is developing an exciting group of wineries that can act as additional standard bearers and adding them to existing stalwarts like Quinta do Mouro, João Portugal Ramos, Cortes de Cima, Esporão, Quinta do Carmo, Mouchão and Fundação Eugénio Almeida (a.k.a., Adega Cartuxa). Promising young wineries with little profile in the U.S.A. include Malhadinha Nova, Zambujeiro and beautiful Dona Maria, among others.
Alentejo also has personalities that can be effective ambassadors to the world, from country gentleman Júlio Bastos at Dona Maria (formerly at Quinta do Carmo), to gregarious João Portugal Ramos, and passionate João and Rita Soares at Malhadinha Nova. Influential winemaker David Baverstock runs Herdade do Esporão. He helped shape the early years at prominent Douro wineries like Quinta do Crasto, Quinta de la Rosa and Fojo. These are folks who collectively may need to pay a little more attention to marketing the region, and not just their wineries, if the region is to become as famous in the USA as it is in Portugal. In the USA, the recognizable brand name for Portuguese dry reds is more likely to be “Douro” than anything else. The Port connection, again, gives the Douro a head start in consumer awareness.
Its growth and increasing quality make Alentejo one more wine region to put on your list. Here is your chance to get ahead of the curve, because in the next decade there are going to be an increasing number of wines that people will want to talk about coming from Alentejo. There is already a substantial core group that is impressive and intriguing, and of course the region is chock full of fine bargains. I found many wines that were very pleasing for under 10 Euros--even some under 5. Hopefully, exchange rates will not destroy all of these values and some of them will make it to our shores. Most winemakers I spoke to, however, were increasingly concerned--and sometimes on the verge of panic--about the exchange rate problem.
Still, whether you are a bargain hunter or a trophy hunter, you will ignore Alentejo at your peril.
A Few Words About the Douro’s New Vintages
Portugal’s most famous wine region is now presenting or about to present many 2005s in the marketplace. I did not see many of these for my last report, but I now have a better idea of what they are likely to become.
The trio of vintages, 2003-2005, as in Alentejo, produced many excellent wines, although they are very differently styled. As in Alentejo, I believe 2004 is the best of this trio of vintages, producing concentrated, ageworthy and intense wines with excellent fruit that generally still retain their balance and focus. They are powerful, but they also have some precision, balance and focus. I believe that they will age well. Many producers indicated it was one of Portugal’s best ever vintages for dry wines--if not the best, considering recent improvements in dry wine making as well as vintage conditions.
Vintage 2003 was the year that shocked most of Europe with scorching heat. In 2003, most producers indicated that it was harder for them to keep the wines in balance than it was in 2004. My tastings would seem to confirm that as some of the wines (not all, by any means) showed a little heat after long aeration. The vintage is a bit more inconsistent than 2004. The wines that work well, and many do, are ripe, succulent and sexy. They are more approachable and less dense than the 2004s, but often simply delicious. As the wines continue developing, it seems apparent that they are not quite as well structured overall as the 2004s, but at their best, consumers will find a lot to like from these wines.
2005 was a difficult year because it had so little rain, unusual even for the relatively dry Douro. Some producers said that they feared the grapes would not ripen properly. Many also reported slightly lower alcohol levels. The word “freshness” came up repeatedly in conversations to describe these wines. Where the wines have problems, it is the opposite problem of the 2003s—some can be too understated for their own good.
It is almost an old joke to report that many producers to whom I spoke thought their 2005s were their best releases ever, exceeding the performance of their 2004s-- that they touted as their best ever vintage just twelve months ago. The punch line here is that, at least for a lucky few, they may not too far from wrong. Charles Symington (Symington Family) probably summed it up most succinctly in calling 2005 "a winemaker’s year," because the best wines from some top producers lack little and hold up well, more or less, to their 2004s and 2003s. There are many reasons for this, from some relatively new producers continuing to refine their craft (such as Pintas, Poeira), to some dedicated producers simply making the most of what nature gave them (such as Quinta do Crasto, Lemos & Van Zeller, and Vale Meão). Overall, however, I would say that the 2005s are less consistently excellent, lighter and less concentrated than the 2004s. At the lower end, or if they are not fully successful, they can seem routine and foursquare. Many such will be early maturing. They certainly have more finesse than the big vintages preceding them, and considerable charm. While they match neither the succulence of the ‘03s, nor the density and intensity of the ‘04s, the best of them are often lovely, impeccably balanced and seductive. The best of them will find many fans, particularly those looking for a little more restraint in this warm climate region. This is likely an atypical vintage for the Douro, as a couple of producers asserted.
Wine of the vintage candidates include Vale Meão's flagship Tinto, Lemos & Van Zeller's CV, Crasto's Maria Teresa, Wine & Soul’s Pintas and Vallado's new old vines cuvée, Adelaide.
2006, as in Alentejo, is a problematic vintage that will end the Douro’s run of luck for the moment. It is impossible to say just how badly at the moment since most top 2006 reds have not been bottled or released. It was a year featuring a dry Winter, then both heavy rain at times and hailstorms, which missed many vineyards but affected others seriously. Some reported a loss of 70% to 80% of the new crop. Quinta de Roriz, for one notable instance, lost half of its crop. Some producers indicated that the crop was smaller, but fine. Just to complete the hat trick, however, extended heat also harmed the grapes at times. The Summer of 2006 was the 5th hottest on record since 1931.
Note: In this article, you will see references to how wines drank on the next day. For your information, since it probably affects how quickly wines age and deteriorate, when I put wines away to try the next day, I stopper them and refrigerate them overnight.
Unknown Author
Simply put, Alentejo is the fire to Douro’s ice. Two more different regions can hardly be imagined. The Douro, atmospheric, rugged and remote, is nestled in the Northeastern corner of Portugal, several hours North of Lisbon. Alentejo (literally, “beyond the Tejo River”) is a vast region in Portugal's South, but much of Alentejo is easily accessible from Lisbon. Its Southern capital city, Beja, is about two hours South of Lisbon by car.
Alentejo is sparsely populated, containing only about 7.5% of Portugal’s population despite comprising approximately 34% percent of Portugal’s land mass. It is divided into four administrative districts. The cities of Beja (pop. 35,000), Évora (the largest city with a population of 50,000) and Portalegre (pop. 25,000) anchor three of the districts. The fourth district, called Alentejo Litoral, has no anchor or so-called "capital" city. Although Évora is between Portalegre in the North and Beja in the South, Évora and Beja are customarily referred to respectively as the capitals of Alto (Upper) Alentejo and Baixo (Low) Alentejo.
Particularly in the Southern part of the region, the flat landscape, in sharp contrast to the Douro‘s steep and beautiful hills, can turn monotonous. People seem few and far between. It is dotted with sprawling farms, olive and cork trees, cattle, sheep, pigs and, increasingly, vineyards, many of which are springing up out of nowhere. Sectors around Évora and Estremoz are more interesting, but still no match for the breathtaking views of the Douro.
Stereotypically, Alentejo wines are appreciated for good quality to price ratios at the lower end and fruit forward approachability. "Their wines are easy," said one competitor. That increasingly unreliable stereotype is a back handed compliment, to be sure, and it was never totally true, as structured wines like Quinta do Carmo have proven for decades. It also ignores the increasing number of producers making serious, powerful and ageworthy wines.
Alentejo is a contender for the title, but the Douro is Portugal's best wine region. While, as noted previously, there is little in Alentejo to compare to the Douro’s picturesque scenery, there is also, more pertinently, little to compare to the Douro‘s old vineyards and centuries old winemaking traditions. The Douro’s connection to an existing, world famous wine industry--the Port trade--is a huge advantage for its table wine makers. The Port industry provides human and financial resources, a stable foundation and a tradition for the region. It is not surprising that the Douro stirs the blood of rabid enthusiasts with its history, romance and rugged terroir.
That, however, is hardly the end of the story. Alentejo is an increasingly prominent and prestigious region that cannot be ignored. It has certain advantages over the Douro, including the ease and cost of harvesting and planting. If that flat landscape lacks the sheer majesty of the Douro‘s steep hills, it makes vineyard management much easier and cheaper. If its traditions are not as old, its freedom to experiment often produces excellent results. If Alentejo does not, in my opinion, have quite as many distinctive and exciting wines as the Douro at this time, it has very serious people making substantial investments who are rapidly changing that dynamic.
Change is in the air, in many respects. Circa 1990, Alentejo had a handful of co-ops, and approximately two dozen producers. Today, about fifteen years later, official figures as of this writing show 237 producers, an astonishing growth. Local producers are speculating that this rapid growth may in fact soon halt, as it was partly encouraged by a subsidy program that may end shortly, perhaps causing dozens of wineries and growers to disappear. One producer estimated that one-third of the wineries might vanish. Coupled with European Union attempts to reduce a glut of wine (consumption in the EU is down, and imports are up), the region’s explosive growth may at least pause in the near future.
Classification
Portugal’s wine classification makes “Alentejo” on the label a D.O.C., similar to France’s A.O.C. and Italy’s D.O.C. There are eight sub-regions classified within the Alentejo DOC: Borba, Reguengos, Moura, Redondo, Granja-Amareleja, Évora, Portalegre, and Vidigueira. While nearly all of the well known wines that you see in the Douro are DOCs, in less traditional Alentejo there is rebellion evident analogous to the Super Tuscan phenomenon. Many wineries simply opt out of the Alentejo DOC’s requirements and designate most of their wines with the broader Vinho Regional Alentejano classification. Although in theory the “DOC” is the top of the quality line, in practice there is often no stigma to being a VR, particularly in Alentejo. Carrie Jorgensen, co-owner of Cortes de Cima, asserted: “The best wines are VRs in Alentejo.” She added, “Alentejo is good for outlaws.”
Given this independent streak, it is not surprising that Alentejo has developed a reputation for making “international” wines. Producers often use internationally familiar varietals like Syrah to blend into popular local grapes like Aragonez (uh-RAG-o-nesh, also known as Tempranillo in Spain and Tinta Roriz in the Douro) and Trincadeira (also known as Tinta Amarela in the Douro). Producers are also increasingly adopting Touriga Nacional (the Douro’s signature varietal). It seems to be a grape that will do very well in Alentejo.
Climate and Vintages
Alentejo’s climate is dry and often brutally hot, although the Northern sub-region is a bit cooler than the South. Locals talk of interior temperatures from the hottest areas hitting 47C (117F) in the Summer. Work in the vineyards generally ends early in the afternoon. In fact, winemakers told me of various days in certain vintages where it just seemed impossible to work at all due to the extreme heat. It also seems to be getting hotter. It was not so long ago that 2003 was talked about as one of the hottest years ever in Alentejo. Yet, locals called 2005 equally scorching. They added that extreme, prolonged heat in 2006 seriously harmed the vintage.
As in the Douro, the trio of vintages from 2003-2005 produced many excellent wines overall. Most producers pick 2004 as the best recent vintage, a view with which I concur as a generalization. It produced structured, dense and generally well balanced wines. Although I rank 2004 at the top, it is dangerous to generalize over a region this large with so many wineries that have different philosophies and, more importantly, different experience levels with their vineyards. It was a good Aragonez year for most, which is significant, said several producers, because it means that it did not get unbearably hot. In unusually hot years, those producers said that they rely on Syrah more. 2003 and 2005 were both extremely hot years that produced many excellent wines. They are not as consistent as the '04s, but there are many fine wines, ripe and succulent. If you see older vintages on the market, the 2001s are powerful but focused, coming closer to 2004, and the 2000s are succulent and rich.
The weakest recent vintages are clearly 2002 and 2006. 2002 was problematic in most of Portugal, as well as much of Europe. Picking at the right time did allow some wineries to produce good wines. Extreme heat and rain at the wrong times badly marred 2006. David Baverstock, winemaker at Esporão, said that "2003 and 2005 were very hot, but manageable. 2006 was very hot, but not manageable." Based on my tastings (which have yet to include many top 2006 reds), one saving grace to 2006 is the performance of the white wines. From what I saw in Alentejo, good producers often turned out nice Brancos, as whites are called in Portugal, far exceeding the reputation of the vintage--and of Alentejo, which is not exactly famed for its white wines. Most producers aim to correct that, and, citing consumer demand, spoke of a renewed emphasis on their Brancos. I predict that white wines are going to become a point of pride in Portugal in general, and Alentejo in particular.
Some Final Thoughts
The stereotype of Alentejo being merely a fruit forward, good value region is plainly outdated. There are certainly many producers content to fill a niche of providing bang for the buck, with little pretension to greatness. There is, to be sure, something to be said for that. At the same time, while Alentejo has always had some flagships, the region is developing an exciting group of wineries that can act as additional standard bearers and adding them to existing stalwarts like Quinta do Mouro, João Portugal Ramos, Cortes de Cima, Esporão, Quinta do Carmo, Mouchão and Fundação Eugénio Almeida (a.k.a., Adega Cartuxa). Promising young wineries with little profile in the U.S.A. include Malhadinha Nova, Zambujeiro and beautiful Dona Maria, among others.
Alentejo also has personalities that can be effective ambassadors to the world, from country gentleman Júlio Bastos at Dona Maria (formerly at Quinta do Carmo), to gregarious João Portugal Ramos, and passionate João and Rita Soares at Malhadinha Nova. Influential winemaker David Baverstock runs Herdade do Esporão. He helped shape the early years at prominent Douro wineries like Quinta do Crasto, Quinta de la Rosa and Fojo. These are folks who collectively may need to pay a little more attention to marketing the region, and not just their wineries, if the region is to become as famous in the USA as it is in Portugal. In the USA, the recognizable brand name for Portuguese dry reds is more likely to be “Douro” than anything else. The Port connection, again, gives the Douro a head start in consumer awareness.
Its growth and increasing quality make Alentejo one more wine region to put on your list. Here is your chance to get ahead of the curve, because in the next decade there are going to be an increasing number of wines that people will want to talk about coming from Alentejo. There is already a substantial core group that is impressive and intriguing, and of course the region is chock full of fine bargains. I found many wines that were very pleasing for under 10 Euros--even some under 5. Hopefully, exchange rates will not destroy all of these values and some of them will make it to our shores. Most winemakers I spoke to, however, were increasingly concerned--and sometimes on the verge of panic--about the exchange rate problem.
Still, whether you are a bargain hunter or a trophy hunter, you will ignore Alentejo at your peril.
A Few Words About the Douro’s New Vintages
Portugal’s most famous wine region is now presenting or about to present many 2005s in the marketplace. I did not see many of these for my last report, but I now have a better idea of what they are likely to become.
The trio of vintages, 2003-2005, as in Alentejo, produced many excellent wines, although they are very differently styled. As in Alentejo, I believe 2004 is the best of this trio of vintages, producing concentrated, ageworthy and intense wines with excellent fruit that generally still retain their balance and focus. They are powerful, but they also have some precision, balance and focus. I believe that they will age well. Many producers indicated it was one of Portugal’s best ever vintages for dry wines--if not the best, considering recent improvements in dry wine making as well as vintage conditions.
Vintage 2003 was the year that shocked most of Europe with scorching heat. In 2003, most producers indicated that it was harder for them to keep the wines in balance than it was in 2004. My tastings would seem to confirm that as some of the wines (not all, by any means) showed a little heat after long aeration. The vintage is a bit more inconsistent than 2004. The wines that work well, and many do, are ripe, succulent and sexy. They are more approachable and less dense than the 2004s, but often simply delicious. As the wines continue developing, it seems apparent that they are not quite as well structured overall as the 2004s, but at their best, consumers will find a lot to like from these wines.
2005 was a difficult year because it had so little rain, unusual even for the relatively dry Douro. Some producers said that they feared the grapes would not ripen properly. Many also reported slightly lower alcohol levels. The word “freshness” came up repeatedly in conversations to describe these wines. Where the wines have problems, it is the opposite problem of the 2003s—some can be too understated for their own good.
It is almost an old joke to report that many producers to whom I spoke thought their 2005s were their best releases ever, exceeding the performance of their 2004s-- that they touted as their best ever vintage just twelve months ago. The punch line here is that, at least for a lucky few, they may not too far from wrong. Charles Symington (Symington Family) probably summed it up most succinctly in calling 2005 "a winemaker’s year," because the best wines from some top producers lack little and hold up well, more or less, to their 2004s and 2003s. There are many reasons for this, from some relatively new producers continuing to refine their craft (such as Pintas, Poeira), to some dedicated producers simply making the most of what nature gave them (such as Quinta do Crasto, Lemos & Van Zeller, and Vale Meão). Overall, however, I would say that the 2005s are less consistently excellent, lighter and less concentrated than the 2004s. At the lower end, or if they are not fully successful, they can seem routine and foursquare. Many such will be early maturing. They certainly have more finesse than the big vintages preceding them, and considerable charm. While they match neither the succulence of the ‘03s, nor the density and intensity of the ‘04s, the best of them are often lovely, impeccably balanced and seductive. The best of them will find many fans, particularly those looking for a little more restraint in this warm climate region. This is likely an atypical vintage for the Douro, as a couple of producers asserted.
Wine of the vintage candidates include Vale Meão's flagship Tinto, Lemos & Van Zeller's CV, Crasto's Maria Teresa, Wine & Soul’s Pintas and Vallado's new old vines cuvée, Adelaide.
2006, as in Alentejo, is a problematic vintage that will end the Douro’s run of luck for the moment. It is impossible to say just how badly at the moment since most top 2006 reds have not been bottled or released. It was a year featuring a dry Winter, then both heavy rain at times and hailstorms, which missed many vineyards but affected others seriously. Some reported a loss of 70% to 80% of the new crop. Quinta de Roriz, for one notable instance, lost half of its crop. Some producers indicated that the crop was smaller, but fine. Just to complete the hat trick, however, extended heat also harmed the grapes at times. The Summer of 2006 was the 5th hottest on record since 1931.
Note: In this article, you will see references to how wines drank on the next day. For your information, since it probably affects how quickly wines age and deteriorate, when I put wines away to try the next day, I stopper them and refrigerate them overnight.
Unknown Author
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Champagne 101
Champagne is a single Appellation d’Origine Controlee. The grapes must be Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Chardonnay is a white grape and when used exclusively is called “Blanc de blanc”. The two Pinots are red grapes and Champagnes made from these grapes are called “Blanc de Noir.” A white wine is obtained by gentle pressing and taking the juice off the skins before it has time to impart any color. Sometimes a slight rust color is evident in some Champagnes as the skins were left to have some contact with the juice. For Rose Champagne, the skins are allowed contact for a chosen period of time.
To be called “Champagne” the grapes must have been grown in the Champagne region of France. The climate of Champagne holds many challenges for grape growers. It is the most northern region of any important wine producing region. The weather is cold and damp. Champagne’s weather comes from the North Atlantic without any mountains for a natural barrier. The average temperature in Champagne is barely high enough to allow grapes to ripen. Acidity levels stay high in such a cool climate which is desirable in sparkling wine. Another concern is early or late frosts. These are common occurrences and the wine growers use the aspersion technique to protect the grapes. This is the process of spraying a light layer of water on the grapes and vines which freezes on the buds or the grape bunches, forming a protective shield from the cold. Also this region gets a lot of rain. The grapes are susceptible to fungi and mildews with extended periods of dampness.
It is important to note the terroir of Champagne. The most distinguishing characteristic is the high concentration of chalk in the soil. There are two types of chalk (which is a form of limestone) and one; belemnite chalk can only be found in Champagne. The wine is then matured in the tunnels of the old chalk quarries.
Champagne is made from still wine that has been fermented dry. The key process in producing Champagne is a second fermentation that occurs in the sealed bottle There are several distinct steps in the “Methode Champenoise.”
Selecting the cuvee is the first step. Cuvees can be from a pure grape variety, or can be mixture of the grape varietals. Most Champagne is made from mixed cuvees. The alcohol content of the cuvee is usually around 10%.
The Tirage is the second step. After the cuvee is selected, sugar, yeast and yeast nutrients are added. The entire mixture, called the tirage is put in a thick glass bottle and sealed with a cap. The tirage is placed in a cool cellar, at a 45 degree angle and allowed to slowly ferment, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. It is important to note that Champagne contains approximately four atmospheres of carbon dioxide; four times that of other wines. Since the bottle is sealed, the gas cannot escape thereby producing the bubbles of Champagne.
Aging on dead yeast is the next step. As the fermentation process proceeds, yeast cells die and after several months, the fermentation process is complete. However the Champagne continues to age in the cellar for several more years. During this aging process, the yeast literally bursts open and spills their insides throughout, thus resulting in a yeasty, toasty characteristic. The best Champagnes are left to age for five or more years.
Riddling is the process in which the dead yeast cells are removed from the bottle. The Champagne bottle is at an angle in an A-frame type holder, bottom up. A “riddler” comes through and turns the bottle 1/8th of a turn and gives it a quick shake and possibly tilts the angle of the bottle a little more each time. This will loosen any yeast particles and send them to the neck of the bottle. This is done one to three days over a period of several weeks. Also known as Remuage
Disgorging is the process in which the dead cells are removed. The Champagne bottle is kept upside down while the neck is frozen in an ice-salt bath. This results in a ‘plug’ of frozen wine which contains the dead yeast cells. The cap is removed and the pressure of the carbon dioxide forces the frozen wine out leaving behind clear Champagne. At this point the dosage, a mixture of white wine, brandy and sugar, is added to adjust the level of sweetness the winemaker is trying to achieve, and to top off the bottle. The bottle is then corked and the cork wire put down to secure the high internal pressure of carbon dioxide.
Classification of Champagne styles include: Extra Brut, Brut,Sec, Demi-sec and Doux. Each one of these is an indication of residual sugar. Extra brut being the driest at 0 to .5% residual sugar and Demi-sec at upward of 5% residual sugar.
Modern remuage versus traditional remuage
Remuage also known as riddling is the process of moving the dead yeasts to the neck of the bottle so they can be removed during disgorgement. The process was invented by an employee of Madame Cliquot in 1818 because if the dead yeasts were not removed, the wine had to be decanted and lost some of its effervescence in the decanting. Before the yeast can be removed, the neck of the bottle must be frozen solid in an icy brine bath. This is so the disgorgement can take place and finally the dosage before the bottles is re-corked.
Traditionally the bottles were rotated daily by a riddler between one eighth and one quarter of a rotation and gradually brought to an upright position over a period of time up to three months in some houses. The purpose of these movements is to loosen the adhesion of the sediment to the sides of the bottle and get the dead yeasts to slide to the neck of the bottle. The time and space required for this step of the Champagne making process put limitations on the amounts of wine houses could produce during the year.
In 1973, the first computer controlled gyro pallets appeared and the remuage process changed rapidly. The task of dislodging the sediment which took several months by hand could now be accomplished in a shorter period of time in less space by machines operated by computers. There are several different techniques for automating the remuage process; some such as rotopal or champrex require human labor as well as machines that speed up the process. These systems hold up to 381 bottles in each container that can be rotated at the same time and also allow for some human judgement. The gyro pallet systems are completely automated and allow for over one thousand bottles to be riddled in the same pallet over a period of time, often less than one week. This increase in efficiency allowed some houses to take production from seven to eight cycles annually, using hand riddling to forty-five cycles with the automated gyro pallet system.
Even more radical technologies are coming into existence that enclose the yeast in a gel so it can react with the wine and be easily removed during the disgorgement process. This would make the gel not adhere to the sides of the bottles. Still, some twenty-five percent of champagne produced today are hand riddled so judgements can be made by people and the process is taken slowly.
Xavier Auzas
To be called “Champagne” the grapes must have been grown in the Champagne region of France. The climate of Champagne holds many challenges for grape growers. It is the most northern region of any important wine producing region. The weather is cold and damp. Champagne’s weather comes from the North Atlantic without any mountains for a natural barrier. The average temperature in Champagne is barely high enough to allow grapes to ripen. Acidity levels stay high in such a cool climate which is desirable in sparkling wine. Another concern is early or late frosts. These are common occurrences and the wine growers use the aspersion technique to protect the grapes. This is the process of spraying a light layer of water on the grapes and vines which freezes on the buds or the grape bunches, forming a protective shield from the cold. Also this region gets a lot of rain. The grapes are susceptible to fungi and mildews with extended periods of dampness.
It is important to note the terroir of Champagne. The most distinguishing characteristic is the high concentration of chalk in the soil. There are two types of chalk (which is a form of limestone) and one; belemnite chalk can only be found in Champagne. The wine is then matured in the tunnels of the old chalk quarries.
Champagne is made from still wine that has been fermented dry. The key process in producing Champagne is a second fermentation that occurs in the sealed bottle There are several distinct steps in the “Methode Champenoise.”
Selecting the cuvee is the first step. Cuvees can be from a pure grape variety, or can be mixture of the grape varietals. Most Champagne is made from mixed cuvees. The alcohol content of the cuvee is usually around 10%.
The Tirage is the second step. After the cuvee is selected, sugar, yeast and yeast nutrients are added. The entire mixture, called the tirage is put in a thick glass bottle and sealed with a cap. The tirage is placed in a cool cellar, at a 45 degree angle and allowed to slowly ferment, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. It is important to note that Champagne contains approximately four atmospheres of carbon dioxide; four times that of other wines. Since the bottle is sealed, the gas cannot escape thereby producing the bubbles of Champagne.
Aging on dead yeast is the next step. As the fermentation process proceeds, yeast cells die and after several months, the fermentation process is complete. However the Champagne continues to age in the cellar for several more years. During this aging process, the yeast literally bursts open and spills their insides throughout, thus resulting in a yeasty, toasty characteristic. The best Champagnes are left to age for five or more years.
Riddling is the process in which the dead yeast cells are removed from the bottle. The Champagne bottle is at an angle in an A-frame type holder, bottom up. A “riddler” comes through and turns the bottle 1/8th of a turn and gives it a quick shake and possibly tilts the angle of the bottle a little more each time. This will loosen any yeast particles and send them to the neck of the bottle. This is done one to three days over a period of several weeks. Also known as Remuage
Disgorging is the process in which the dead cells are removed. The Champagne bottle is kept upside down while the neck is frozen in an ice-salt bath. This results in a ‘plug’ of frozen wine which contains the dead yeast cells. The cap is removed and the pressure of the carbon dioxide forces the frozen wine out leaving behind clear Champagne. At this point the dosage, a mixture of white wine, brandy and sugar, is added to adjust the level of sweetness the winemaker is trying to achieve, and to top off the bottle. The bottle is then corked and the cork wire put down to secure the high internal pressure of carbon dioxide.
Classification of Champagne styles include: Extra Brut, Brut,Sec, Demi-sec and Doux. Each one of these is an indication of residual sugar. Extra brut being the driest at 0 to .5% residual sugar and Demi-sec at upward of 5% residual sugar.
Modern remuage versus traditional remuage
Remuage also known as riddling is the process of moving the dead yeasts to the neck of the bottle so they can be removed during disgorgement. The process was invented by an employee of Madame Cliquot in 1818 because if the dead yeasts were not removed, the wine had to be decanted and lost some of its effervescence in the decanting. Before the yeast can be removed, the neck of the bottle must be frozen solid in an icy brine bath. This is so the disgorgement can take place and finally the dosage before the bottles is re-corked.
Traditionally the bottles were rotated daily by a riddler between one eighth and one quarter of a rotation and gradually brought to an upright position over a period of time up to three months in some houses. The purpose of these movements is to loosen the adhesion of the sediment to the sides of the bottle and get the dead yeasts to slide to the neck of the bottle. The time and space required for this step of the Champagne making process put limitations on the amounts of wine houses could produce during the year.
In 1973, the first computer controlled gyro pallets appeared and the remuage process changed rapidly. The task of dislodging the sediment which took several months by hand could now be accomplished in a shorter period of time in less space by machines operated by computers. There are several different techniques for automating the remuage process; some such as rotopal or champrex require human labor as well as machines that speed up the process. These systems hold up to 381 bottles in each container that can be rotated at the same time and also allow for some human judgement. The gyro pallet systems are completely automated and allow for over one thousand bottles to be riddled in the same pallet over a period of time, often less than one week. This increase in efficiency allowed some houses to take production from seven to eight cycles annually, using hand riddling to forty-five cycles with the automated gyro pallet system.
Even more radical technologies are coming into existence that enclose the yeast in a gel so it can react with the wine and be easily removed during the disgorgement process. This would make the gel not adhere to the sides of the bottles. Still, some twenty-five percent of champagne produced today are hand riddled so judgements can be made by people and the process is taken slowly.
Xavier Auzas
Friday, March 27, 2009
how many calories are in wine?
First it needs to be established that, yes, there are calories in wine. Indeed, almost nything you eat or drink contains calories unless it is made of almost entirely of water or chemicals. However, calories should be considered fuel for the body and a body will not function well without an adequate supply of fuel. That said, the calories in wine need to be counted if you are watching your weight.
Wine As A Fuel Source
Typically, there are around 80-100 calories in an average-sized glass of wine. An average-sized glass is considered to be 125-150 mls (around 4 fl oz), so in a 750ml bottle there are roughly five to six glasses of wine at most. There are red wine glasses available today that can hold almost a full bottle of wine so it is important to consider the size of the glass when counting the calories in wine. A 750ml bottle of wine will generally contain between 300 and 500 calories.
Not all wines contain the same number of calories. Some of the drier white wines, for example, Sauvignon Blanc, white Zinfandel, and Chablis are at the lower end of the calorie scale - around 80 calories per glass. Red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot tend to be in the mid range - around 95 calories per glass. Champagne contains around 100-105 calories per glass.
The really high calorie wines are the fortified wines like Port, Madeira, Muscatel and Tokay. These wines typically contain between 165 and 185 calories per glass. However, it should be noted that these wines are usually served in smaller glasses.
Having established the existence of calories in wine it is important to count them in your daily dietary intake if you enjoy a glass of wine or two with a meal. However, it is also worthwhile to keep the number of calories in perspective. Compared to a cheeseburger the calories in wine appear almost negligible. A cheeseburger can have up to1000 calories and can include as much fat as a body might require in a month! At least wine is fat free. The calories come from the sugar and the carbohydrates. So wine in moderation can usually be included in a calorie-controlled diet.
The Benefits of Wine
Regardless of the calories contained in wine, there are many documented benefits to drinking it in moderation. Wine can enhance the food we eat and act as an aid to digestion. Red wine in particular has potential benefits in that it is believed to help protect against certain forms of cancer and heart disease. Studies have shown a reduction of 30%-50% in heart disease of people who regularly drink a glass of red wine each night and a 20% reduction in death from certain cancers.
The health benefits of drinking wine are often attributed to the so-called "French Paradox", whereby the French - even with a diet high in fat - don't suffer from heart attacks at the same rate as North Americans. This has been attributed to their moderate, though steady, wine consumption.
So perhaps it's time to stop focusing on the calories in wine and instead focus on the health benefits ... in moderation, of course.
by Alison Stevens
Wine As A Fuel Source
Typically, there are around 80-100 calories in an average-sized glass of wine. An average-sized glass is considered to be 125-150 mls (around 4 fl oz), so in a 750ml bottle there are roughly five to six glasses of wine at most. There are red wine glasses available today that can hold almost a full bottle of wine so it is important to consider the size of the glass when counting the calories in wine. A 750ml bottle of wine will generally contain between 300 and 500 calories.
Not all wines contain the same number of calories. Some of the drier white wines, for example, Sauvignon Blanc, white Zinfandel, and Chablis are at the lower end of the calorie scale - around 80 calories per glass. Red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot tend to be in the mid range - around 95 calories per glass. Champagne contains around 100-105 calories per glass.
The really high calorie wines are the fortified wines like Port, Madeira, Muscatel and Tokay. These wines typically contain between 165 and 185 calories per glass. However, it should be noted that these wines are usually served in smaller glasses.
Having established the existence of calories in wine it is important to count them in your daily dietary intake if you enjoy a glass of wine or two with a meal. However, it is also worthwhile to keep the number of calories in perspective. Compared to a cheeseburger the calories in wine appear almost negligible. A cheeseburger can have up to1000 calories and can include as much fat as a body might require in a month! At least wine is fat free. The calories come from the sugar and the carbohydrates. So wine in moderation can usually be included in a calorie-controlled diet.
The Benefits of Wine
Regardless of the calories contained in wine, there are many documented benefits to drinking it in moderation. Wine can enhance the food we eat and act as an aid to digestion. Red wine in particular has potential benefits in that it is believed to help protect against certain forms of cancer and heart disease. Studies have shown a reduction of 30%-50% in heart disease of people who regularly drink a glass of red wine each night and a 20% reduction in death from certain cancers.
The health benefits of drinking wine are often attributed to the so-called "French Paradox", whereby the French - even with a diet high in fat - don't suffer from heart attacks at the same rate as North Americans. This has been attributed to their moderate, though steady, wine consumption.
So perhaps it's time to stop focusing on the calories in wine and instead focus on the health benefits ... in moderation, of course.
by Alison Stevens
Monday, March 16, 2009
International appellation laws without the AVAs
Appellations of the World
An appellation is a geographical-based term used to identify where the grapes for a wine were grown. Historically, the world's first vineyard classification system was introduced by the Hungarians in
European Union:
Protected designation of origin (PDO), protected geographical indication (PGI) and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) are geographical indications (GIs) defined in European Union Law to protect the names of regional foods.
Districtus Austria Controllatus (DAC) is latin for controlled from
1. Weinviertal DAC for Gruner Veltliner
2. Mittleburgenland DAC for Blaufrankish
3. Traisental DAC for Riesling and Veltliner
Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC), which translates as "term of controlled origin" is the French certification granted to certain French geographical indications for wines, controlled by the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO). The origins of AOC date back to the 15th century. The first modern law was set in 1919, when the Law for the Protection of the Place of Origin was passed, specifying the region and commune that a given product must be manufactured in, and has been revised on many occasions since then. In the Rhône wine region Baron Pierre Le Roy Boiseaumarié, from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, successfully obtained legal recognition of the "Côtes du Rhône" appellation of origin in 1937.
AOCs vary dramatically in size. Some cover vast expanses with a variety of climatic and soil characteristics, while others are small and highly uniform. For example, the Cotes-du-Rhone AOC "covers some 100,000 acres, but within its area lies one of the smallest AOCs, Château Grillet, which occupies less than 10 arces of land."
Vintners must choose whether to display their premier cru status or their AOC classification, unable to plainly display both. Oftentimes, distinguishing classifications requires knowledge of esoteric label laws such as "Unless the wine is from a premier cru vineyard, the vineyard name must be printed in characters no more than half the height of the ones used for the village name". The Wine laws of
1. Vin de Table- lowest tier for quality, it can come from anywhere in
2. Vin de Pays- regulates that the grapes come from within the boundaries of one of the
140 or so delimited regions and accounts for more than twenty five percent of the wine produced in
3. Vin delimite de qualite superieure (VDQS)- The third tier and is less than 1% of
total production. This is generally a temporary category used for probationary status for wines that have the potential to move up to the next tier.
4. Appellation d’origine Controlee (AOC)- This is the first and most famous tier. The
AOC controls: the grape variety, when to harvest, sugar content, yield, viticultural practices, vinification techniques and minimum and/or maximum alcohol strength of the finished wine. The use of the word
In German wine, quality is determined by several factors, including region of origin, whether sugar has been added, and the ripeness of the grapes. The best qualities are classified on the labels, specifying the Einzellage (a small region of origin) the wine is from, thus providing some information about the terroir. In
The 1971 classification of German wines divides them into the following groups:
Deutscher Tafelwein- The equivalent of table wine. They may be chapitalized.
Deutscher Landwein- German country wine
Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) Wine from a specific region
Qualitätswein mit Prädikat - This highest level of the classification contains almost all
quality German wines. The wines must be produced from recognised grape varieties grown within one district, which must be declared on the label, and the grapes must reach a prescribed level of ripeness depending on the region and variety. The must weight (sugar level of the grape juice) is seen as a rough indicator of qualtiy. This does not necessarily determine the sweetness of the final wine, because the winemaker may choose to ferment the wine for longer. From 2007/2008 onwards, Qualitätswein mit Prädikat will be renamed Prädikatswein. QmP wines are ranked by ripeness as:
Kabinett fully ripened light wines
Spätlese a late harvest wine, may or may not be sweeter than kabinett
Auslese made from selected very ripe grapes, usually sweet
Beerenauslese individually selected overripe grapes often affected by noble rot,
Trockenbeerenauslese selected overripe shrivelled grapes often affected by noble rot
Eiswein (ice wine) grapes that have been naturally frozen on the vine, No Noble Rot
Eiswein BA (Eisweinbeerenauslese) containing noble rot. Better quality than Eiswien.
O.P.A.P.- (Onomasía Proeléfseos Anotéras Piótitos) 'Appellation of Origin of Superior
Quality' or the French 'V.L.Q.P.R.D.' There are 25 designations for this appellation, most of them for dry red and white wines.
O.P.E (Onomasía Proeléfseos Eleghoméni) 'Controlled Appellation of Origin' or the French 'V.Q.P.R.D.' There are currently seven qualified regions or products, all of them for sweet wine. Producers of OPAP and OPE wines have the option to use the term Reserve for white wines that are aged for two years (minimum of 6 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle) and red wines that are aged for 3 years (same minimums). Grand reserve can be used for white wines that age for three years or more (spending a minimum of one year in barrel and one year in bottle) and red wines that are aged for 4 years (spending a minimum of two years in barrel and two years in bottle).
Topikos Inos- (Local wine) is the Greek equivalent to the French Vins de pays. There are currently 139 qualifying appellations. Labels are permitted the use of confidence-inspiring domaine names so long as the requirement of sufficient locality is met.
Epitrapezios Inos- (Table wine) is equivalent to the French Vin de Table. Producers of Table wine have the option to use the term Kava (rough translation: cellared, which in Greece is a qualititative association) for white wines that are aged for two years (spending a minimum of 6 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle) and for red wines that are aged for three years ( spending a minimum of 6 months in new oak or 1 year in old oak barrels and two 2 years in bottle).
Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) is an Italian quality assurance label for food products and especially wines. It was instituted in 1963 and overhauled in 1992 for compliance with the equivalent EU law on (PDO). There are two levels of labels:
DOC — Denominazione di Origine Controllata
DOCG — Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
DOCG regions are subterritories of DOC regions that produce outstanding products that may be subject to more stringent production and quality standards than the same products from the surrounding DOC region. Wines labelled DOC or DOCG may only be sold in bottles holding at most 5 liters. A notable difference for wines is that DOCG labelled wines are analysed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation, DOCG wine bottles then are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.
Italian legislation additionally regulates the use of the following qualifying terms for wines:
classico: is reserved for wines produced in the region where a particular type of wine has been produced "traditionally".
riserva: may be used only for wines that have been aged at least two years longer than normal for a particular type of wine.
IGT Indicazione Geografica Tipica, for high-quality wines that do not fit DOC/DOCG regulations. Tipica is the second of four classifications of Italian wine, leading Vino da Tavola (Table wine). Created to recognize the unusually high quality of the class of wines known as Super Tuscans, IGT wines are labeled with the locality of their creation, but do not meet the requirements of the theoretically higher DOC or DOCG. It is considered the rough Italian equivalent of the French vin de pays designation.
Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) The world's second oldest appellation control was introduced in
Indicação de Proveniencia Regulamentada (IPR) DOC’s in waiting, like
Vinho Regional Similar to
Vinho de Mesa – Table wine
Denominación de Origen (Designation of Origin - DO) It wasn't until the 17th century that laws begin to be formulated with regard to wine, initially prohibiting, later encouraging and ultimately regulating its production, commercialization and consumption
Denominación de Pago (DO de Pago) - Individual single-estates with an international reputation
Denominación de Origen Calificada/Qualificada (DOCa/DOQ - Denominació d'Origen Qualificada in Catalan): top-quality wine regions. So far, only Rioja
Denominación de Origen (DO - Denominació d'Origen in Catalan) - mainstream quality-wine regions
Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD) or (VC)- less stringent regulation with specific geographical origin
Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT) - "country wine" areas which do not have EU QWPSR status but which may use a regional name
Vino de Mesa - Table wine, production of which has been in decline in recent years.
The
Still Wine Sparkling Wine
1.
2. English Regional Wine 2. English Quality Sparkling Wine
3. English Quality Wine 3. Welsh Sparkling Wine
4. Welsh Regional Wine 4. Welsh Quality Sparkling Wine
5. Welsh Quality Wine
Label Integrity Programme (LIP)-
- Minimum of 85% of the grape variety stated on the label must be used.
- If two different types of grapes are used in excess of 85% for any one variety, both grapes must be mentioned on the label in order of importance.
- Generic labels are not permitted.
- If the name of a growing area, state, region or sub region is on the label, a minimum of 85% of the grapes must come from that place.
- If the vintage is stated on the label, a minimum of 95% of the grape must have been harvested during that vintage.
- If the term “show reserve” is used on the label, the wine must have won a medal at a tasting competition.
- If the term “reserve bin” or “bin number” appears on the label, it usually distinguishes a premium or higher quality wine.
- If the term “wood matured” appears on the label, it indicates that the wine spent time in new or relatively young casks and thus has an oaky taste.
Vintners Quality
The VQA system allows for sub-appellations, by which the grapes for wines are sourced from extremely specific geographical locations with different soil and climate. This is in accordance with the concept of terroir.
As
Levels of appellations:
Provincial → Regional Appellation →Collective sub-appellation → Sub-appellation
In December 1994, the
Chilean wine laws stipulate that export white wines must attain a minimum alcohol content of 12% and reds 11.5%. Especial wine must be aged two years, Reserve wine must be aged four years and Gran Vino must be aged six years. If a varietal, estate, vintage or place of origin is named on the label it must contain 75 percent of that grape type.
Instituto Nacional de Viniviticultura (INV) - regulates pruning methods, harvesting schedules, transport of grapes, release dates of finished wines, minimum and maximum alcohol percentages and the planting of new vines. The INV also sets prices for domestic wines. Only Vinos Finos (the best of Argentinean wines, about ten percent) is strictly controlled by government and industry. Argentine winemakers have traditionally been more interested in quantity than quality and the country consumes 90% of the wine it produces.
An American Viticultural Area (AVA) is a delimited grape-growing region distinguishable by geographic features, with boundaries defined by the
Unlike most European appellations, an AVA specifies only a location. It does not limit the type of grapes grown, the method of vinification, or the yield, for example. Some of those factors may, however, be used by the petitioner when defining an AVA's boundaries.
Once an AVA is established, at least 85% of the grapes used to make a wine must be grown in the specified area if an AVA is referenced on its label.
State or county boundaries, such as for
A vineyard may be in more than one AVA. For example, the
The BATF laws have been strengthened in regards to labeling of the variety’s percentages listed requiring that ninety percent of the listed grape be in the bottle with the exception of Cabernet Sauvignon, which only requires seventy-five percent.
The state follows BATF laws and members of the Washington Wine Commission have taken even greater steps to increase quality through stringent labeling practices that require wine makers to only use AVA names on labels if one hundred percent of the grapes are from that AVA, all wines must be from Vinifera grapes with no additives and the term reserve must only be used for gapes that are one hundred percent Washington and up to ten percent of the wineries total production of that variety.
Xavier Auzas
Quick overview of France's appellation laws
The increase in trade and export led to increases in wine fraud, whereby inferior wines were labeled as superior wines, or inferior wines were blended with the wines of well-known producers. A number of laws to fight cheating were passed in 1935. They established the Appellation d`Origine Contrôlée system, which is governed by a powerful oversight board (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine - INAO). Consequently, France has one of the oldest appellation systems for wine in the world, and strictest laws concerning winemaking and production. Many other European systems are modelled on it. With European Union wine laws being modelled on those of the French, this trend is likely to continue with further EU expansion.
French law divides wine into four categories, with two falling under the European Union`s Table Wine category and two falling under the EU`s Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) designation. The categories are:
Table wine:
* Vin de table - Carries with it only the producer and the designation that it`s from France.
* Vin de pays - Carries with it a specific region within France (ex. Vin de Pays d`Oc). Any French varietal can be grown in any region as long as the yield is restricted to 80hl/ha.
QWPSR:
* Appelation Contrôlée (AC) - A locale within a region (ex. Côte de Beaune)
* Appelation d`Origine Contrôlée (AOC) - Indicates a specific vineyard (ex. Château Margaux)
France`s best-known regional appellation system was developed in 1855, in preparation for the Great International Exposition in Paris. At the request of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, the Union of Brokers Attached to the Bordeaux Market identified the Grands Crus (Great Growths) du Medoc and organized them into five categories. The rankings were based entirely on recent prices.
White wines in Bordeaux were also ranked. One (present-day Château d`Yquem) was uniquely ranked above all others in its own category, that of Premier Cru Superieur (Superior First Growth). There were 11 First Growths and 12 Second Growth white wines. These, too, were established entirely on the basis of prices in 1855.
Within two years after the classification system was published, wine sales by the classified producers increased over 250 percent. With the passage of time, many of the châteaux acquired additional vineyards far away, some sold part of their vineyards, some let their vineyards deteriorate, and many other changes occurred.
Wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr. argues that the classification has long created an injustice to consumers because it has caused mediocre wines to be sold for too much and good wine to be sold for too little. He says that the archaic rankings ``should be regarded by both the wine connoiseur and the novice as informational items of historical significance only.``
Bourgogne`s classification system was created in 1861 for the Paris World`s Fair in 1862. It has 110 appellations in an area only one-fifth the size of Bordeaux. Complicating the system is the fact that many villages have hyphenated their names to include that of their best vineyard. This promotes sales but tends to confuse consumers.
Xavier Auzas
French law divides wine into four categories, with two falling under the European Union`s Table Wine category and two falling under the EU`s Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) designation. The categories are:
Table wine:
* Vin de table - Carries with it only the producer and the designation that it`s from France.
* Vin de pays - Carries with it a specific region within France (ex. Vin de Pays d`Oc). Any French varietal can be grown in any region as long as the yield is restricted to 80hl/ha.
QWPSR:
* Appelation Contrôlée (AC) - A locale within a region (ex. Côte de Beaune)
* Appelation d`Origine Contrôlée (AOC) - Indicates a specific vineyard (ex. Château Margaux)
France`s best-known regional appellation system was developed in 1855, in preparation for the Great International Exposition in Paris. At the request of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, the Union of Brokers Attached to the Bordeaux Market identified the Grands Crus (Great Growths) du Medoc and organized them into five categories. The rankings were based entirely on recent prices.
White wines in Bordeaux were also ranked. One (present-day Château d`Yquem) was uniquely ranked above all others in its own category, that of Premier Cru Superieur (Superior First Growth). There were 11 First Growths and 12 Second Growth white wines. These, too, were established entirely on the basis of prices in 1855.
Within two years after the classification system was published, wine sales by the classified producers increased over 250 percent. With the passage of time, many of the châteaux acquired additional vineyards far away, some sold part of their vineyards, some let their vineyards deteriorate, and many other changes occurred.
Wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr. argues that the classification has long created an injustice to consumers because it has caused mediocre wines to be sold for too much and good wine to be sold for too little. He says that the archaic rankings ``should be regarded by both the wine connoiseur and the novice as informational items of historical significance only.``
Bourgogne`s classification system was created in 1861 for the Paris World`s Fair in 1862. It has 110 appellations in an area only one-fifth the size of Bordeaux. Complicating the system is the fact that many villages have hyphenated their names to include that of their best vineyard. This promotes sales but tends to confuse consumers.
Xavier Auzas
Sunday, March 15, 2009
New world vs Old world--What does this mean?
The Old World and New World Approach to Wine
by Randy KemnerOld World Wine
For the indigenous wine-growing cultures of Europe, wine was originally created as a way to preserve fruit from grapes until the next fall harvest. The fact that grapes were the only fruit with enough natural sugar to ferment into wine made them special enough to plant wherever climate and soil would allow them to thrive.
In the ancient Mediterranean cultures before the science of fermentation was understood, the transformation from grape juice to wine was mystical and holy, and wine soon found its way into the religious services of nearly all religions of antiquity where it remains to this day. Wine is still used in Jewish ceremonies and is the "blood of Christ" in Christian communion services and Catholic masses. The "holiness" of wine is not lost on Europeans where it takes on multiple roles at the family table.
In the southern European and Mediterranean dinner table, wine provided not only the fruit but the acidity needed to balance the starchy and fatty diets of the populace. A glass of Riesling, for example, would perk up the heaviness of pork and sausages. A glass of Chianti brought needed fruit and acidity to the starchy game and olive oils of Tuscany. European wine is made for the dinner table.
Wine was used in the middle ages and beyond not only as a beverage but as a cure for diseases. Scurvy, non potable water and stomach ailments were among many health-related uses for wine wine. Modern research has disclosed cardiovascular benefits and cancer-preventative properties to wine. The so-called "French Paradox" is that French people who eat rich dairy and fatty foods thought to cause cardiovascular illness actually have less of such illness than Americans. Drinking red wine was thought to be part of the reason why.
Wines from the Old World have traditionally been identified by their place of origin. In wine-growing Europe, centuries of evolution have resulted in determining which varieties of grapes are best adapted for the unique soil and climate of a particular region. Appellation laws in France, Spain, Italy and Germany have strict requirements that protect the character of the wines of each region and there are government tasting panels that actually monitor each winery's stylistic compliance.
For the wine consumer, a typical European wine is identified by the name of its place on a label. Chianti, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chablis, Vouvray, Bordeaux and Champagne are all names of regions whose grape variety makeup is determined by law. That way a wine buyer buying a Barolo, for example, is guaranteed that his wine will be made of Nebbiolo and it will have a taste unique to that region.
New World Wine
In countries where grape growing isn't universal and grain beverages like beer and spirits dominate, the wine has a different historical and cultural place in society. The way the population drinks wine differs also from the Europeans.
New World wines are dominated by varietal bottling, listing the grape variety on the label. The purpose of the New World vintner is to achieve full expression of varietal character, not the full expression of his region. The place, which is important in terms of soil and climate, takes a back seat to the variety. Whether the Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Australia, Argentina or Napa Valley, the vintner wants to make Cabernet. The Bordelaise, who also use Cabernet Sauvignon, want to make Pauillac or St. Julien or Margaux.
Because New World winemaking is relatively modern, there is little tradition of wine at the tables of the indigenous population. Working-class Americans, for example, weren't raised with a bottle of inexpensive, unoaked table wine on the table. For people discovering wine on their own then, understanding and learning about the taste of different varietals such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot is the first step to wine appreciation.
In practical terms, non-wine drinking cultures produce wine enthusiasts who learn about wine by exposing themselves to elite wines rather than indigenous wines. It is a top-down process that is about the wine itself rather than wine as merely one of many components to a dinner menu. As a result, wines are made—and judged—as they perform in a stand-alone situation. The more concentrated, dense, flavorful, fruit-forward, the more impressive the wine.
These New World styles of wines have become so popular they dominate wine sales in America and increasingly in much of the world. Modern wine criticism encourages vintners who experiment to make bigger and more alcoholic wines that make a great first impression. Suitability with food is of secondary, or no consideration.
The Main Distinction Between Old World and New World Wines
Understanding that wine is fermented fruit juice may be the most important contrast between the Old and New World approaches to wine. Where the Old World traditionally uses wine as a food, it must possess the proper flavor, pitch, weight, balance and acidity for the items it is accompanying on the plate.
New World wines, whose aggressive alcohol and liberal use of oak flavor are so desirable in a stand-alone beverage, usually fails as a food wine for the same reasons. They simply taste out-of-whack, often diminishing in size when confronted with competing flavors. A simple, fruity, balanced wine in the European mold is much more versatile on the table. It is the role of wine as fruit, that Old World wines are so much more useful on the table than flavored booze.
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